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Mt Dixon with Aspiring Guides

Four day climbing expeditions

Climb Ascents
Duration
4 days
Fitness
2
Climb Rating
2
Backcountry
2
Overview

Alpine climbing in New Zealand means that most climbs require a day or two for access.

For this reason, most summits require 3-4 days return. There is a wide variety of four-day options. Obviously using a helicopter will get you onto snow quicker, however there are great walk-in walk-out options. If you are unsure what peak would be best for you, just let your guide know what you are interested in and they can make sure you get trip best for you.

book now from $2850 Skills required
Location
quotes

Top choice on Mt Dixon Tim! It was an awesome day. Tim lead up a gully maybe only 10-15m in length at the start of the climb on Dixon. That climb up the gully was awesome, something I haven't experienced before! Tim pushed me out of my comfort zone a...read more

James Spaile, Australia

Day One

Pioneer Hut

Meet at our Wanaka office where you meet your guide and do a complete gear check. There will be time for getting last minute items if you have to. It is a 3 hour drive to Fox township and our helicopter staging area. After flying into Pioneer Hut and droping our bags we get familiar with cramponing and ice axe techniques as well as glacier travel methods. With views out over the Tasman Sea this is an amazng place to be.

Day Two

West Coast Summit

An alpine start gets you out of bed and on the trail just at first light. A practice day on the south shoulder of Mt Haidinger is the perfect warm up to get used to the snow conditions and steep snow pitching. Your guide will show you everything you need to know and you will appreciate having a tight rope above you!

Day Three

Mt Lendenfeld North Shoulder

Another early start to take advantage of the hard snow conditions in the morning takes you to the foot of Mt Lendenfeld. Winding through the crevasses to Marcel Col can be exciting and reaching the Col is a highlight with views of the Tasman Glacier on the eastern side of the divide. Five pitches of 50 degree snow or ice takes you to the upper shoulder where the angle backs off, with easier climbing to the summit. Lendenfeld is next in line on the divide after Mount Cook and Mount Tasman and is the perfect place to view these NZ icons. Typically it is 8-10 hours round trip back to the hut following the way you came up. A classic alpine day out.

Day Four

IMG 0026

After a big breakfast and real coffee, we head down the Fox Glacier to Chancellor Hut. It is a beautiful trip (all downhill!) with many crevasse fields and ice falls to navigate. It may be soft snow and fairly easy-going or later in the summer it is mostly ice with many detours to find the way. The hut sits high above the tumbling ice of the Fox Glacier and is a welcome sight after working through the many obstacles of the route. The ice ends just above the hut and you will find walking in grass and wild flowers to be a shock to the system after four days on the glacier. The walk to the valley floor is cut off by the lower glacier so we arrange for a helicopter pick up to take us back to our vehicle on the valley floor.

Fly-in and fly-out

  • Mt Dixon (3004m) sits on the northern edge of the Grand Plateau, amongst the large and famous peaks such as Aoraki/Mt Cook and Mt Tasman (plus at least 6 other 3000+ peaks). Climbing Mt Dixon from the new Plateau hut (2100m) provides fantastic views of all of these majestic mountains and the Tasman glacier (NZ’s largest glacier). Fly into Plateau Hut
  • The Minarets (3040m) are climbed from Centennial hut (2400m) which is situated on the West Coast of NZ. Combines alpine grandeur with the Tasman Sea views, incredible sunsets to the west are something not to be missed. A moderately technical snow climb crossing the crevasse riddled Chamberlain and the Geike snowfields, this climb is a rewarding test of physical and mental fitness, with views from the summit both out to sea and down the Tasman Glacier (NZ’s largest glacier). Fly into Centennial Hut.
  • Lendenfeld Peak (3195m) lies on the Main Divide of the Southern Alps next to Mount Tasman and across from Mount Cook. The climb starts from Pioneer Hut at 2300m on the Fox Glacier and ascends across the upper neve through an icefall to Marcel Col at 3000m. From here the route is moderate snow/ice climbing to the summit of Mt Lendenfeld. The vista both east and west from Marcel Col and Lendenfeld Peak is hard to describe - something you won't believe you can experience. Fly into Pioneer Hut

Walk-in and walk-out (save on flight costs)

  • Mt Brewster ( 2515m) - see our Mt Brewster Ascent webpage for more details.
  • Mt Avalanche (2606m) Perched at the head of the Bonar Glacier, Mt Avalanche is a scenic highlight of Mt Aspiring National Park. As walk-in / walk-out trip it offers a fantastic variety of terrain and climbing. The route to French Ridge Hut is a steep exciting track which slowly reveals the huge cliffs of the surrounding area. From the hut climbers must negotiate the crevassed glacier called the Quarter Deck, depending on the time of year this can either be steep snow or tumbled ice. Traversing the Upper Bonar Glacier takes you to the start of the alpine rock. Easy but exposed crack climbing leads to a summit that dominates the area.
  • Mt Earnslaw (2816m) is situated at the head of Lake Wakatipu near Queenstown. This is the perfect first peak for someone wanting to test themselves on a classic New Zealand ascent. It offers a splendid view of the BIG mountains of New Zealand from the top. Access is via the Rees Valley where a scenic beech forest hike takes you to Wright Col and Esquilant Bivy (2300 metres). There are challenging routes as well as easy ones, a great place to find out what New Zealand climbing is all about.
  • Mt Barth (2456m) lies in the remote Ahuriri Valley which borders onto the Mount Aspiring National Park. It offers a true wilderness experience. This valley saddles with the Dingle, Hunter, South Huxley, South Temple and Maitland Valleys. (excellent fishing reported here!) The walk in offers varied terrain through bush, Beech forest, stream bank, shingle and boulder hopping. A large bivi rock is our camp, in the middle of the valley, beyond a major bluff. We climb Mount Barth from Canyon Creek bivi rock. We cross the Thurneyson glacier and follow the West Ridge to the summit.
  • Mt Barff (2245m) lies in the Mount Aspiring National Park. You won’t get sick of the views of Mt Aspiring from this peak. Mt Barff is located near the head of the West Matukituki Valley opposite Mt Aspiring. The track to Liverpool departs the west Matukituki track at Pearl flat. From here the track ascends through steep Beech forest in a way that this and the French ridge track are well renowned for. Exposed tree roots present themselves as welcome aid. Out of the trees, the travel becomes exposed over tussock and shingle to the hut (1065m). The South-East ridge (grade 2) A big day with lots of height gain. Cold conditions are the ideal to keep things firm for the descent.
  • The Footstool (2764m) sits on the main divide overlooking the confluence of the Mueller and Hooker valleys, with exceptional views of Mt Cook’s South Face. From the summit there are views to the Copland valley and the West Coast. We start walking from Mt Cook Village, walk in via the Hooker track, travel up steep scree tussock and rock ledges to access Sefton Bivy nestled below Mt Footstool and Mt Sefton. Climb Footstool (2764m), via main divide and return to Sefton bivy. Watch and listen to impressive ice calving off the Sefton icefall. Return to Mount Cook Village for well earned beers back at the Hermitage.
  • Mt Sealy (2627m) is an easier trip which can assist with becoming more comfortable in the mountains. There are several other peaks in the area and this is the perfect trip for people who want to test the water. The climb begins at Mt Cook Village and ascends a steep but well formed track to Mueller Hut. Climbed from Mueller Hut return, Mt Sealy it is a big day out so often it is preferable to bivi out one night.

Physical Difficulty

The helicopter will deliver you close to the hut so there is no need to carry a heavy pack. Walking through deep snow requires strong thighs and good cardiovascular ability. The summit day usually lasts 8-10 hours so endurance and the ability to keep going when you are tired will definitely be tested. Descending the track required strong thighs, be sure to get a few days walking down steep hills to get your legs in shape for going down as well as up!

book now from $2850

Technical Difficulty

Mount Lendenfeld is a typical 4-day ascent.

Lendenfeld is an excellent place to try out cramponing and using an ice axe for the first time and this is a great place to learn about glacier travel. The glacier is easy angled and rises slowly until reaching 40-50 degrees towards the top. Ascents will require some front pointing on the final pitches. The guide will deal with placing protection required.

book now from $2850

Availability

Trip Date Available
Available at any time subject to guide availability and conditions. Nov - April

Pricing

Client Ratio Price
1:1 NZ$5,250
1:2 NZ$2,850

What's included

  • meals and energy snacks
  • alpine hut / tent accommodation
  • national park, landing & guide fees
  • 15% goods and services tax.
  • technical equipment - see equipment section below for details
  • weather contingency

What's not included

  • any flights into or out of the mountains - often the price can be shared with other climbers depending on aircraft loadings at the time

Frequently asked questions

Our offices are at 58 McDougall St, Wanaka, a 10-15 minute walk from the centre of town. Here's a google map of our office location.

Unless otherwise instructed, for summer trips your guide will meet you at 8.30am on the morning of Day 1 of your trip. For winter trips we usually meet at 5pm the evening before the trip starts. We will confirm this meeting at the time of booking.

If you require pick up from your accommodation, please let us know.

At this meeting your clothing and equipment is checked and the final details of your trip are discussed. There will be time for last-minute purchases if required.

Aspiring Guides is based in the small & scenically beautiful town of Wanaka. Situated on the shores of Lake Wanaka, on the South Island of New Zealand, Wanaka is the gateway to Mt Aspiring National Park - a World Heritage Area.

Wanaka is a 1 hour drive from Queenstown (which has an international airport for flights from Australia), 5 hours from Christchurch (with an international airport) and 3 hours from Dunedin. Wanaka has ample accommodation to suit all budget types and a wide range of outdoor sports stores necessary to equip you for a mountaineering, skiing or hiking trip with us.

We are located at 58 McDougall St, Wanaka, a short 10-15 minute walk from the centre of town.i

Equipment Detail

We include all technical climbing equipment, crampons, ice-axe, helmet, harness etc. You only need to provide your personal equipment like your boots and clothing, pack and sleeping bag. However many of these items are available for rent from us.

Equipment Detail Checklist & order form
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