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Huascaran CII Garganta 6000m

Huascaran - Peru's Highest

International
Duration
19 days
Summit
6768m
Fitness
2
Technical
2
Backcountry
2
Overview

Advanced Mountaineering Expedition to Peru

Have you climbed Mt Aspiring (SW Ridge), Mt Cook or Mt Tasman or their equivalent grades overseas? Climbed at altitudes 5000m+ previously? Do you want to extend your skills with a climb of Peru's highest mountain - Huascaran (6,768m / 22, 205 ft), but with the expertise & logistic support from one of Peru's most experienced and respected mountain guides?

Then this is the expedition for you!!

Aritza Monasterio, IFMGA is your local experienced guide. He has guided our Tres Montañas Expedition for the last 5 years in the Cordillera Blanca region of the Peruvian Andes and works the summer season in New Zealand for us.

book now Skills required
Location
quotes

I thought Aritza and his team were amazing. They all worked hard for us and each other to make the trip a success. I have been on a lot of trips to mountains where camp food is prepared for me. I found on this trip the food was exceptional. Really go...read more

Roger, United Kingdom, Peru - Tres Montanas

Day One

Picture 123

Arrive in Lima. Transfer from airport to hotel.

Day Two

1 Huaraz

Transfer from Lima to Huaraz (3,090m). Hotel in Huaraz.

Day Three

Trail to Lake Willcacocha

Trek from Huaraz to Lake Wilcacocha (3,743m) and return. Night in Huaraz.

Day Four

Ahuac Lake

Trek from Huaraz to Lake Ahuac (4,580m) and return. Night in Huaraz.

Day Five

Lake69

Travel from Huaraz to Cebollapampa (3,850m) - a 3-hour drive. From Cebollapampa we do a 5-hour return trek to Lake 69 (4,600m). Overnight in Cebollapampa.

Day Six

Cebollapampa2

Hike from Cebollapampa (3,850m) to the Pisco basecamp (4,600m).

Day Seven

On the Pisco Morraine

Travel from Pisco basecamp (4,600m) to Pisco moraine camp (4,950m).

Day Eight

Pisco Summit day

Pisco summit day (5,752m). Return to Pisco basecamp via moraine camp.

Day Nine

Cellopampa

Hike from Pisco basecamp to Cebollapampa, and then transfer back to Huaraz. Overnight in Huaraz.

Day Ten

IMG 3777

Rest day in Huaraz.

Day Eleven

Musho

Transfer from Huaraz to Musho (3 hours drive). Hike Musho to Huascaran basecamp (4,200m).

Day Twelve

Up to Huascaran C I

Husacaran basecamp (4,200m) to Camp I (5,350m).

Day Thirteen

Arriving CII Garganta

Camp I (5,350m) to Camp II Garganta (5,950m).

Day Fourteen

Back from summit 6400 m

Camp II Garganta to Huascaran summit (6,768m) and return to Camp II Garganta.

Day Fifteen

Huascaran CII Garganta 6000m2

Contingency / Weather day.

Day Sixteen

Around Canaleta

Return from Camp II Garganta to Huascaran basecamp.

Day Seventeen

17 Huaraz

Return form Huascaran basecamp to Musho and transfer back to Huaraz. Overnight in Huaraz.

Day Eighteen

P1020252

Transfer Huaraz to Lima. Night in Lima.

Day Nineteen

Transfer hotel in Lima to Jorge Chavez International airport for flights home.

Conditions on Huascaran - the Plan B

Due to varying mountain conditions existing on Huascaran from year to year - it is a rarely climbed peak and a significant achievement on any climbing resume. However, a large crevassed area from Camp II to the Summit and the "La Canaleta" section of the climb which is exposed to avalanche & ice-fall make judging the right conditions imperative. With Aritza living in Huaraz and his 25+ years experience in the Peruvian Andes - he is specifically skilled to judge whether conditions are suitable for a climb of Huascaran. However, if for any reason, Aritza decides that the conditions are not suitable, an ascent of Alpamayo (5947m / 19,511 ft) will be substituted. While not as high as Huascaran, Alpamayo is generally regarded as one of the World's most beautiful mountains. The route on Alpamayo will be "French Direct" and will involve 7 pitches of 55 - 80-degree climbing.

As always, acclimatization will the key to success on Huascaran or Alpamayo.

Starting this process from Huaraz, climbers will undertake several high altitude trekking trails to beautiful alpine lakes - Lake Wilcacocha & Ahauc. Following will be an ascent of Pisco (5752m/ 18,871ft). Pisco is an ideal acclimatization peak and also enjoys breathtaking views of the next objective - Huascaran.

If you would like to register your interest for 2017, please complete and return the booking form above.

Availability

Trip Date Available
September, 2020 Open

Pricing

Client Ratio Price
Price on Application

What's included

  • Package price is per person, ex Lima
  • For inclusions and exclusions please ask us for our Peru Trip Information Page

Frequently asked questions

We offer a number of different options for you to make payment for your trip:-

Web-based Foreign Exchange Dealers

Bank Transfer - NZ Domestic & International

Credit Card - Visa, MasterCard only (3% fees apply)

Click here for a full list of payment options and details.

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