Have you climbed Mt Aspiring (SW Ridge), Mt Cook or Mt Tasman or their equivalent grades overseas? Climbed at altitudes 5000m+ previously? Do you want to extend your skills with a climb of Peru's highest mountain - Huascaran (6,768m / 22, 205 ft), but with the expertise & logistic support from one of Peru's most experienced and respected mountain guides?
Then this is the expedition for you!!
Aritza Monasterio, IFMGA is your local experienced guide. He has guided our Tres Montañas Expedition for the last 5 years in the Cordillera Blanca region of the Peruvian Andes and works the summer season in New Zealand for us.book now Skills required
Roger, United Kingdom, Peru - Tres Montanas
Arrive in Lima. Transfer from airport to hotel.
Transfer from Lima to Huaraz (3,090m). Hotel in Huaraz.
Trek from Huaraz to Lake Wilcacocha (3,743m) and return. Night in Huaraz.
Trek from Huaraz to Lake Ahuac (4,580m) and return. Night in Huaraz.
Travel from Huaraz to Cebollapampa (3,850m) - a 3-hour drive. From Cebollapampa we do a 5-hour return trek to Lake 69 (4,600m). Overnight in Cebollapampa.
Hike from Cebollapampa (3,850m) to the Pisco basecamp (4,600m).
Travel from Pisco basecamp (4,600m) to Pisco moraine camp (4,950m).
Pisco summit day (5,752m). Return to Pisco basecamp via moraine camp.
Hike from Pisco basecamp to Cebollapampa, and then transfer back to Huaraz. Overnight in Huaraz.
Rest day in Huaraz.
Transfer from Huaraz to Musho (3 hours drive). Hike Musho to Huascaran basecamp (4,200m).
Husacaran basecamp (4,200m) to Camp I (5,350m).
Camp I (5,350m) to Camp II Garganta (5,950m).
Camp II Garganta to Huascaran summit (6,768m) and return to Camp II Garganta.
Contingency / Weather day.
Return from Camp II Garganta to Huascaran basecamp.
Return form Huascaran basecamp to Musho and transfer back to Huaraz. Overnight in Huaraz.
Transfer Huaraz to Lima. Night in Lima.
Transfer hotel in Lima to Jorge Chavez International airport for flights home.
Due to varying mountain conditions existing on Huascaran from year to year - it is a rarely climbed peak and a significant achievement on any climbing resume. However, a large crevassed area from Camp II to the Summit and the "La Canaleta" section of the climb which is exposed to avalanche & ice-fall make judging the right conditions imperative. With Aritza living in Huaraz and his 25+ years experience in the Peruvian Andes - he is specifically skilled to judge whether conditions are suitable for a climb of Huascaran. However, if for any reason, Aritza decides that the conditions are not suitable, an ascent of Alpamayo (5947m / 19,511 ft) will be substituted. While not as high as Huascaran, Alpamayo is generally regarded as one of the World's most beautiful mountains. The route on Alpamayo will be "French Direct" and will involve 7 pitches of 55 - 80-degree climbing.
As always, acclimatization will the key to success on Huascaran or Alpamayo.
Starting this process from Huaraz, climbers will undertake several high altitude trekking trails to beautiful alpine lakes - Lake Wilcacocha & Ahauc. Following will be an ascent of Pisco (5752m/ 18,871ft). Pisco is an ideal acclimatization peak and also enjoys breathtaking views of the next objective - Huascaran.
If you would like to register your interest for 2017, please complete and return the booking form above.
We offer a number of different options for you to make payment for your trip:-
Web-based Foreign Exchange Dealers
Bank Transfer - NZ Domestic & International
Credit Card - Visa, MasterCard only (3% fees apply)