logo
35 Clem 2017 08 16 Arete des Cosmiques

Mont Blanc Royal Traverse

International
Duration
7 days
Summit
4810m
Fitness
2
Technical
2
Backcountry
2
Overview

Join Clement Naegelen, Aspiring Guides IFMGA Mountain Guide to attempt the highest mountain in Western Europe, the iconic Mont Blanc at 4,810m.

Over 8 days you will acclimatise with 2 days training, then begin your ascent of Mont Blanc. There are different routes to climb the mountain which will depend on hut availability and the conditions on the mountain at the time. The intended route will be via the Dômes de Miages traverse and Aiguille de Bionnassay to reach Gouter Hut from which Mont Blanc will be climbed. The climb takes 3-4 days and requires participants to have previous mountaineering experience and a good level of fitness.

book now Skills required
Location

Pre-Trip

The closest international airport to Chamonix is Geneva. It’s easy to take a shuttle bus from the airport to the hotel in Chamonix. In the evening explore the resort town of Chamonix. There are many local restaurants and bars to dine. There are also shops to make any last-minute purchases.

Stay- Hotel in Chamonix

Day 1

077 Clem 2017 07 20 Alpi14 S1 Glacier du Tour

Clem, your guide, will meet you at the hotel in the morning for a trip briefing and equipment check. Together you will discuss the plan for the trip and check gear, with time for last-minute shopping and supplies before heading out onto the iconic Mer de Glace to practice cramponing skills. The afternoon will be spent brushing up on crevasse rescue and rope work techniques. There will be a lot to cover on the first day!
Duration: 5-7 hours of activities
Elevation profile: 700 m
Style of climbing: Ice - French technique cramponing

Stay - Hotel in Chamonix

Day 2

012 Clem 2017 07 04 Stage MB Arete a Lolo

Travel just outside of Chamonix for acclimatization training on Aiguille du Midi (3842 m), climbing the Cosmique Ridge or traversing Pointes Lachenal. This peak is a great introduction to climbing at altitude with a variety of route options and amazing summit views.
Duration: 5-6h of activity
Elevation profile: 300 m
Style of climbing: steep snow, easy mixed climbing and rock climbing

Stay - Hotel in Chamonix

Day 3

10 Clem 2017 08 12 Domes de Miages

We begin by trekking to the Conscrit Hut from Les Contamines, the start of the journey to Mont Blanc. This day is shorter than the other days but still consider, it’s just the beginning of the journey! If there are two people on the expedition another guide will join us so you will be climbing as one climber per guide on Mont Blanc. You will travel in individual teams, moving at each team’s own pace.
Duratio: 8 hrs
Elevation profile: +1650m / -250m
Stay - Conscrit Hut

Day 4

45 Clem 2017 08 13 Domes de Miages

Conscrits Hut – Aiguille de la Bérangère – Dômes de Miages traverse – Durier Hut.
Climb the esthetic ridgeline with views of the summit of Mont Blanc! This is one of the most striking ridgelines in the Alps. Depending on the condition, it will be a nice easy walk on Tre-la-Tete Glacier, with a finish on the stunning ridge or a never-ending ridge (you will not want it to finish ;) ). To finish the day, we will stay in the tiny Durier hut with a beautiful view on the wild SW face of Mont Blanc.
Duration: 5-8 h
Elevation profile: +1300m/ -600m
Style of climbing: steep snow, knife-edge ridge, easy mixed climbing, maybe a bit of ice

Stay - Durier Hut

Day 5

Bionnassay

Durier Hut – Aiguille de Bionnassay – Bionnassay Traverse – Gouter Hut.
Another amazing ridgeline but higher than the day before! Depending on the conditions it can involve some rock climbing up to the Bionnassay. The view gets more spectacular the higher you go!
Duration: 6h
Elevation profile: +1100m/ -600m
Style of climbing: steep snow, knife-edge ridge, mixed climbing and rock climbing

Stay - Gouter Hut

Day 6

088 Clem 2017 08 25 Stage Mont Blanc Summit

Gouter hut – Mont Blanc – Mont Maudit – Mont Blanc du Tacul – Aiguille du Midi.
Mont Blanc (4808 m) summit day! We begin with an alpine start around 2am. From the hut, the route picks its way across the Dome du Gouter, then passes close by Vallot shelter and after a short break, we will climb the beautiful Arete des Bosses. At dawn you will be on the top. Descending will still be long but beautiful, passing by two peaks over 4000m!
Duration: 11h
Elevation profile: +1300m/ -1600m
Style of climbing: mostly snow ascent and easy mixed climbing. There are sections on sharp ridges in some parts and a steep downclimbing section.

Stay - Hotel in Chamonix

Day 7

P1020733

Rest day in Chamonix or additional weather contingency day. If the weather necessitates, waiting one extra day in the hut or in town may be necessary. We spend this final evening celebrating the completion of the course before saying goodbye.

Stay - Hotel in Chamonix

The expedition will be based out of Chamonix, France, dominated by the majestic peak of Mont Blanc and surrounding Alps. It provides good access for climbing peaks such as Mont Blanc and many other 4000 + meter peaks.

Clement (Clem) who will be leading this expedition is born in France and has been guiding for 5 years as a fully certified mountain guide. The Mont Blanc area has been his main playground, and he is always happy to do some routes he has never done before. He is now established in New Zealand and part of the Aspiring Guides team.

Getting there

Fly into Geneva International Airport.

Transport from Geneva to Chamonix

We suggest using Mountain Drop Offs. It's better to book in advance:
https://www.mountaindropoffs.com/

General information

Equipment hire/purchase

Availability

Trip Date Available
June, dates flexible, 2020 2 places

Pricing

Client Ratio Price
1:1 €9,700
1:2 €6,750

What's included

  • Guide/s fees for 7 days
  • Hotel in Chamonix for up to 5 nights
  • 3 nights mountain hut accommodation including all breakfast, lunch and dinners (one water bottle of 1.5L included)
  • 3 x lift ticket and ground transport during trip
  • For full details see the itinerary

What's not included

  • Airfare, transport to/from Chamonix and travel insurance
  • Hotel, transport and food post-trip
  • Technical climbing equipment (see equipment list)
  • Alcohol, snacks and additional water in the hut (water is up to 9€ for 1.5L)
  • Food when not in the mountains

Frequently asked questions

See each individual trip descriptions for any trip or courses. All prices are in New Zealand Dollars and include the government 15% Goods & Services Tax (GST).
There is a currency converter on all trip pages to give you an estimate of the trip price in your own currency.

Most of our mountaineering ascents are conducted on a 1:1 basis, so no problem there.

For all other group climbing, skiing or WildWalks hiking trips, we have a 2 person minimum number to operate a trip. If you are travelling on your own, try to organise your itinerary to match up with the dates scheduled for the course or trip listed on our website.

If you can't join a trip on our scheduled dates: then you have two options:

Book a private 1:1 trip for any dates you wish or
We can book you as a single and we will try to match others to your dates. If we cannot find at least one other person for the dates you want, one month before the start date we will give you a full refund or offer you an alternative trip 1:1 for a fewer number of days.

Equipment Detail

Introduction
For some, New Zealand is a once in a lifetime experience and since they have come all this way they might as well make the most of it.For people new to New Zealand climbing, it is ...
Price
Featured
8 days 3 3
Explore now
Introduction
Seven days with a top guide and some of the greatest mountains in the world! You decide with your guide what objectives are best for you.We can customize an itinerary for you depen...
Price
from $4600NZ
Featured
7 days 2 2
Explore now
Introduction
For this reason, most summits require 3-4 days return. There is a wide variety of four-day options. Obviously using a helicopter will get you onto snow quicker, however there are g...
Price
from $2850NZ
Featured
4 days 2 2
Explore now
TIA Member Green Square Ifmca logo Newzealand mountain logo Outdoor markslogo Departmentofconversation logo