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Sun Dial
News | Jan 23, 2017

Jess's Top 3

Jess talks about her Top 3 Alpine Rock Climbs in the Southern Lakes ...

1. DBEh? - Lake Alta - Remarkables Queenstown

Said to be the first multi-pitch rock climb completed in the Remarkables, DB Eh? (yes that’s the route name!) is one of the classics climbs of the area. It's a must-do if you’re looking for a fun day out without a long approach. The route winds its way up 5 pitches (no harder than grade 16) along a wide buttress below Double Cone overlooking Lake Alta. Climbers experience an almost a pioneering feel as they route-find their way. With many options and ways to choose from, each ascent is never exactly the same. At the top of the 5th pitch you rappel back towards Lake Alta or scramble to the summits of Double Cone.


2. Ravages of Time - Chinaman’s Bluff- Glenorchy

8 pitches and over 200m of stellar climbing on a mixture of bolts and natural protection. The climbing ranges from grade 17-20 and has the feel of adventure climbing. Hanging belays, technical face climbing and cracks to eat up your rack - it’s got it all! There are some great lunch ledges as you gaze out over the snaking Dart River and stunning Glenorchy scenery.


3. Wild Orange Yonder - The Sundial- Remarkables Queenstown

If you’re looking for the perfect rock climbing shot, this is the place. With superb views of the lakes and snow-capped mountains, The Sundial is a unique schist outcrop, the most prominent feature being the arete, an enormous fin-shaped feature sticking out at the base of the Remarkables mountain range. While the actual wall only has a handful of climbs, this place is still well worth a visit. The most spectacular route is Wild Orange Yonder, a 30-meter grade 20 climb. You’ll be feeling the exposure as you cling to the arete ... Don’t forget to pause in time for your camera person to take a quick snapshot- it’ll have you feeling like a true rock star!

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