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Mastering the Ice: Essential Equipment for Climbing in New Zealand's Frozen Playground
In this guide, we delve into the essential equipment necessary for tackling New Zealand's ice-climbing, from specialized boots to the intricacies of crampons and ice tools. Whether you're a seasoned climber or a novice adventurer, understanding the gear can make all the difference in the frozen landscapes of Aoraki/Mount Cook and the Westland regions.
Ice climbing in New Zealand presents unique challenges and rewards, with its rugged terrain and variable conditions. The crags on the south side of Black Peak offer prime opportunities for ice climbing enthusiasts, particularly during the crisp days of early winter when shady aspects above 1500m boast optimal ice conditions.
EQUIPMENT
For technical ice and mixed climbing a fully rigid (full shank) mountaineering boot is required. Single boots constructed from leather or synthetic materials (some models with an integrated gaiter) are suitable for conditions encountered during winter and spring in NZ. Double plastic or synthetic boots do provide extra warmth and have the advantage of being easier to dry out on multi-day trips but are often excessive in New Zealand.
CRAMPONS
While general mountaineering crampons and axes can be used for ice and mixed climbing, a range of specialist ice climbing gear is available. If spending a lot of time ice climbing, specialist axes and crampons can make a big difference.
Vertically aligned front-points penetrate harder ice easier with less shattering. Duel vertical front-points provide a more stable platform to stand on but in hard and brittle ice they can cause the ice to dinner-plate or shatter, requiring several more kicks to ensure a secure placement. Mono vertical front-points excel on hard brittle water ice where the points can be placed the holes left by ice tool placements and allows very efficient and positive climbing. They are also good for mixed climbing and provide good balance on small rock features.
ICE TOOLS
On steep water ice a modern highly curved ice axe and hammer makes a big difference, especially when making placements over bulges and minimising effort on steep terrain.These tools are shorter than general mountaineering tools which need the shaft to be straighter to plunge into the snow.
LEASHES
Wrist leashes are used to avoid dropping ice tools, something that could potentially a big issue on a serious mountain route. They allow grip of the ice tools to be relaxed thus conserving energy on the climber’s arms. However, leashes make it more difficult to shake out, free up hands to place ice screws, limit technique and make things a little more tiring on more technical climbs. Clipper wrist leashes allow the leash to be detached from the tools providing the benefits of having wrist leashes while making it easier to place ice screws and shake out tired arms. When using curved ice tools with comfortable handles they are often not used at all. In this circumstance, an umbilical leash is recommended as they provide the benefits of leashless climbing while limiting the potential to drop the tools.
OTHER USEFUL ITEMS
A V-Thread tool, whether it is a purpose-made one or a homemade one from a wire coat hanger, is a vital piece of equipment for making V-Threads.A good method for racking ice screws is also useful. Options include flutes that hold an ice screw each or ice clippers that are inverted carabiners that can store a number of ice, screws. Both methods are attached to the harness.
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