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AMC

Advanced Mountaineering Course

Climb Climbing courses
Duration
8 days
Fitness
2
Climb Rating
3
Backcountry
2
Overview

This course is for mountaineers with previous experience and develops and expands on essential and advanced skills enabling you to move with confidence through the mountain environment and preparing you for more demanding routes and summits.

The Southern Alps of NZ provide a wide array of objectives to hone your skills on. The course based out of Pioneer Hut on the Fox Glacier or Tasman Saddle Hut accessed from Mount Cook Village. If the weather prevents access to these venues for part of the trip, then alternative venues such as the Remarkables will be used.

Here are some photos from previous courses.

book now from $3650 Skills required
Location
quotes

Fede is a mountain goat in disguise. Both Tony and Fede are very professional. At no time was I pushed beyond my limits, and I was not micro-managed either. Fede has the ability to recognise clients strengths and weaknesses and encourages the client ...read more

Elsje Dines, Australia

Day One

IMG 1257

We meet at the Aspiring Guides office in Wanaka at 8:30am for introductions and course outline. Equipment is reviewed and allocated by your guide. The drive to our staging area at Fox Township takes 3.5 hours. It is a stunning drive up the west coast and a short flight into the Pioneer hut located at 2300m at the head of the Fox Glacier. Your guide will refresh you on your cramponing and self-arrest skills before moving on the more advanced topics.

Day Two

PC040038

This is a day to work on the basics and after finding nearby steep ice your guide will work on your ice axe placements and footwork. Balance and technique will be emphasized.

Day Three

Conway peak is a great warm up to steep snow and ice. Leading your first pitches will be a buzz that you will never forget. Topping out will be a memory that will last forever. The steep hard snow with a couple ice pitches is perfect for learning.

Day Four

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Alack Attack on nearby Mt Allack is a great place to experience some mixed climbing. Three pitches on the glacier before the route enters mixed terrain this is a chance to practice your ice screw placements under the watchful eye of your guide.

Day Five

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Mt Haidinger is an ice climbing playground. A good introduction is climbing the South Arête before traversing the ridge and toping out with three pitches of steep hard ice. This route requires a good mix of mountaineering skills.

Day Six

Hut day

Every trip needs a rest day or two. If there are bad weather days your guide will give talks on topics such as avalanche awareness and New Zealand weather.

Day Seven

IMG 1065

Same peak different route. The West Ridge on Mt Haidinger is an aesthetic corkscrew that rises directly out of the glacier. A beautiful climb with the sting in the tail.

Day Eight

Helicopter pick up

It’s time to head out for a shower. The hike down the Fox Glacier is a pretty special one. Winding through the crevasses eventually takes you to Chancellor Hut perched high over the icefall. This is where the helicopter pick us up for the ride back to civilization and the drive back to Wanaka. We usually arrive back in Wanaka around 7 pm.

This mountaineering course is the real deal, big mountains and big glaciers make this area world-famous for it's challenging mountaineering. Wanaka is the ideal location for mountaineering training. Well-positioned close to the main divide, Wanaka has access to both the western glaciers of Westland National Park and the eastern Mount Cook National Park, and with Aspiring National Park on our doorstep we can run our courses where weather and conditions are optimal.

The course syllabus

  • Mountain hazards identification and avoidance including avalanche awareness
  • Mountain weather
  • Ropework, including belay, abseiling and rescue
  • Protection and anchors on snow, rock and ice
  • Glacier travel techniques and crevasse rescue
  • Multipitch climbing and rescue
  • Snow, ice and mixed climbing
  • Alpine rock climbing
  • Mountain shelter and camp management
  • Equipment and clothing selection
  • Route selection & navigation
  • Trip planning including assessment of weather and conditions, human factors and terrain

At the end of the course you will be a competent member of a mountaineering team, being able to contribute to decision making and attempt ascents of 3000m peaks via routes graded 2 to 3 (NZ grade) or undertake guided ascents of more technical objectives.

Availability

Trip Date Available
2019
2 - 9 Nov Open
23 - 30 Nov Open
3 - 10 Dec C: 1 place
2020
4 - 11 Jan Open
Best conditions for ice and mixed alpine climbing is usually November and December. January to March the course will have more focus on alpine rock climbing.

Pricing

Client Ratio Price
1:3 for 8 days NZ$3,650
1:2 for 6 days NZ$3,650
NB: Min 2 pax required
* If only two people are booked on the course, then it will be shortened to 6 days

What's included

  • guide fees
  • meals and energy snacks
  • alpine hut / tent accommodation
  • technical equipment - see equipment section below for details
  • Aspiring Guides Technical Manual
  • radio network or satellite phone comms
  • national park & landing fees
  • 15% goods and services tax

What's not included

  • Helicopter or fixed-wing flights in and out

Frequently asked questions

This tends to be one of the major concerns of clients going on group trips. However, in our experience, it is very rarely a problem. Due to our small group size, we largely avoid compatibility issues.

However, almost all of the trips we offer are physically demanding. It is very important that you are realistic in the self-assessment of your skills and experience. If you are not familiar with the NZ mountain and wilderness environment it is hard for you to judge how you will go. However, our Chief Guide and all our guides are widely travelled and can give a good assessment before you join a trip whether your experience in other countries will work well for NZ conditions.

If you are joining a group, tolerance is an important personal quality. Tiredness from lack of fitness or sleeping in an unfamiliar environment can take its toll over a long trip. But it is important to remember that while you might be the fastest, you might be the weakest at tying into your harness, crossing a river or making turns in deep powder snow. Inevitably every person on a group trip will have their own unique strengths and weaknesses. An upbeat temperament & accepting attitude go a long way in the mountains.

If you are really concerned about your compatibility with others and you have not done many group trips then we are happy to offer private options on request.

New Zealand is famous for its changeable weather. The mountains here are characterized by long sunny fine periods mixed with sudden and sometimes heavy rain or snow. Our experienced guides are well equipped to provide the best possible trip and have many years experience in judging the conditions.

Travel in bad weather is an art in itself. By using Aspiring Guides you give yourself the best chance of success dealing with whatever the weather may throw at you. We also offer a bonus one day weather contingency on ascents and winter trips that require helicopter access. This means your trip could start a day late if you choose to use this option.

If the weather remains adverse and prevents the trip from operating as originally planned, you have the opportunity to carry out sub-alpine adventure and skill development activities. The Guide fee applies and any trip costs not utilised will be refunded.

It is important that you have read and understood our booking terms and conditions. Once a trip begins there are no refunds.

Equipment Detail

We include all technical climbing equipment, crampons, ice-axe, helmet, harness etc. You only need to provide your personal equipment like your boots and clothing, pack and sleeping bag. However many of these items are available for rent from us.

Equipment Detail Checklist & order form
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