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Climb
Course
Aoraki / Mount Cook Ascent
Nearly rising from sea level, Aoraki/Mount Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand and is highly regarded by any global standard of mountains.
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SEASON:
Late October - Mid December
Trip Overview
Aoraki/Mount Cook is a serious mountain and though it has comparatively low altitude, should not be underestimated. It is regarded as more difficult than Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier in the US and is comparable in length and difficulty to Aguille Verte in Chamonix, France, as well as Mount Huntington in Alaska. Routes on Mount Cook have an element of objective hazard that is impossible to eliminate. Therefore, we prefer to only guide Mount Cook when conditions are optimal. We end our Mount Cook season when conditions on the glaciers make progress slow and expose climbers to a higher level of risk. Mount Cook is heavily glaciated and there are no easy routes to the summit. The goal of standing on this peak motivates climbers all over the world.
This is a sample itinerary and can change due to weather and other unforeseen circumstances. Please use it as a guide.
Day 1
Day 1: Arrival Day
- Arrive at our Wanaka office at 8:00am. Here, you meet your guide and do a complete gear check, as well as review the weather forecast. Any last minute items or equipment are assembled and loaded into our vehicle for the drive to Mount Cook Airport, which takes about 2.5 hours. You can leave any gear, luggage or valuables at our office.
- Mount Cook Airport is a small airstrip within Mount Cook National Park located on the eastern side of the mountain. Here, we load the helicopter for the 15-minute flight to Plateau Hut at 2200m.
- Unlike some of our other trips, the helicopter is able to land very close to the hut. This means food transport isn’t as much of a concern and we can provide excellent meals while catering for individual tastes.
- After arriving at the hut, there’s usually time for a 30-minute venture to Glacier Dome, which is a great opportunity to get a shakedown of your equipment and begin to settle into this amazing location.
Days 2 - 3
Days 2 & 3: Training Days
- For the best possible chance of success, we need the biggest possible weather window. To ascend Aoraki/Mount Cook, you need favourable weather and snow conditions, and we find that a 5-day option enables a high chance of success. While some trips are lucky enough to have long periods of fine weather and therefore get the choice of summit days, other trips need to take advantage of a narrow period of opportunity. If you haven’t worked with your guide before, Training Days are a great chance to get to know each other and work on your climbing teamwork.
- There is the opportunity to climb some of the smaller peaks in the area while you wait for the weather to clear on the higher mountain. The Anzacs (2520m) are an excellent day out and a chance to get used to climbing in this magnificent area.
Days 4 - 5
Days 4 & 5: Summit Day
- Usually it’s best to rest up before the summit attempt, so it’s likely that Day 4 will be a morning session, followed by a descent and an early evening rest, because the 1:00 am wakeup call on Day 5 will come quickly. It can be difficult to eat at that hour, but your guide provides you with a hot drink and breakfast before you start out.
- With hard snow conditions, progress is fast across the lower part of the glacier and as the valley narrows into the Linda Glacier, you start to encounter more crevasses to navigate. Early in the season, this can be straight forward, but as the season wears on, progress can be slow.
- Sunrise should see you at the top of the Linda Shelf, where you begin to encounter your first rock on the route. The summit rocks are generally easy climbing, but after this you begin to feel the effects of the altitude and effort.
- While the summit ice cap is easy climbing with short periods of pitching, it can seem like a long way to the summit.
- The summit of Mount Cook is like no other. Here you stand, on a small island in the South Pacific at an elevation that puts you higher than any other mountain from Asia to South America. On a clear day, it is actually possible to see both oceans at the same time.
- Should the weather refuse to play ball on Days 4 & 5, nearby Mount Dixon is an excellent contingency plan, as it is a little more amicable than the objective hazard in the gauntlet of the Linda.
Day 1
Day 6: Departure Day
- You are tired after your ascent, so a late sleep and big breakfast are the first business of Departure Day.
- The helicopter lands, bringing in a new load of climbers and you wish them luck before you pack your gear and fly back to Mount Cook Airport. From there, we drive back to Wanaka, returning around 5:00pm.
Always on the ascent
PEOPLE
Our expertise guides adventurers to new heights, inspiring them to step beyond the everyday and embrace the challenges that will draw them back for more.
Stewards of tomorrow
PLACE
We instil stewardship in every generation, fostering respect for this taoka, this treasured place.
Champions of Safety
ADVENTURES
Safety comes first, always. The best kind of adventure is knowing there’ll be a next one.
Practical Information
Course Inclusions
Trip Inclusions
Terrain fees
GST Included
New Zealand 15% goods and service tax
Technical equipment
Hut or tent accommodation
(not all huts allow for bookings, and if they are full during high season we might be required to camp)
Meals and snacks
Cooked meals and snacks for duration of trip
Transportation
Transporation from Wanaka to and from the staging area
Heli flight in and out of mountains
IFMGA or NZMGA certified mountain guide
Equipment List
Throughout the summer season, a full range of conditions and temperatures can be expected in the New Zealand Mountains. Due to the remote nature of the the terrain, clients need to be suitably prepared. Your guide will do a comprehensive gear check at your pre-trip meeting.
These are usually fly-in, fly-out trips based at backcountry huts. You will need to carry your personal gear and will be asked to assist in carrying some food and group equipment from the heli-landing site to the hut. Clients should have all their equipment packed into one bag as not all trips will have a heli landing directly to the hut.
We include all technical climbing equipment, crampons, ice-axe, helmet, harness etc; you only need to provide your personal equipment like your boots and clothing, pack and sleeping bag.
Frequently asked Questions
They’re there as you accomplish lifelong ambitions, reach new heights, and dig deep as you pursue the grittiest of adventure experiences. Overcome your limits, and discover the moments that lead to enduring achievement and pride of what you can accomplish with us.
What is included with the trip cost?
Do I need a rental car?
How do I get to Wanaka?
Can I leave my extra bags and valuables with you while we are in the hills?
Do I have to pay if the weather is bad for our trip?
What if I don't fit in with the group ability or otherwise?
What do we eat? I have a special diet, is this OK?
Where is the Aspiring Guides located?
Can I hire equipment through Aspiring Guides?
Why should I get trip insurance for my trip with Aspiring Guides?
Where do we meet for our trip?
Planning your trip
Choosing your trip length
New Zealand weather can be unpredictable and it is likely you will experience at least one weather day on your trip. We structure our trips as 3-7 days to ensure we’re setting you up for success.
Optimal trip lengths:
- Glacier ski/climb trips: no less than 5 days
- Rock climbing: 3-5 days
- Ski Trips: 4-5 days
- Trekking Trips: 3-6 days
When it comes to choosing your trip length for ascents or glacier trips, we recommend talking with our team and they will be able to recommend the best option for you depending on your skills, objectives, seasonality, and availability.
In New Zealand, the best plan is a flexible one.
Having a flexible plan might include a roll date on either side of your trip to shift if needed, or have flexi flights booked.
Pre-Trip Prep
Mountaineering Knots
To help you get the most out of the course it would be great to become familiar with the following knots:
- Overhand knot
- Rethreaded Figure 8 and 8 on a bight
- Clove hitch
- Italian or Munter hitch
Avalanche Awareness
We also highly recommend familiarising yourself with Avalanche Awareness. These videos from Mountain Safety Council are a great starting point if you haven't done an avalanche skills course.
Watch Videos
Getting to Wānaka
The easiest way to get to Wānaka is to fly into Queenstown airport and take one of the shuttles to Wānaka that run several times a day (1.5 hour drive).
-Ritchies has regularly scheduled transfers direct from Queenstown airport to Wānaka each day for about $40 per person.
-Taxis, are also available from KT Sightseeing and Yello if the shuttle schedules don't suit you.
-You can also look at Wanaka Transfers as a great option should you prefer a private transfer.
Trip Insurance
It's always good to be prepared for any unforeseen incident. For any adventure activity or trip that is dependent on weather conditions, we HIGHLY recommend getting trip insurance.
We work closely with Global Rescue which offers great options for international as well as domestic clients for medical/accident coverage, trip interruptions or cancellations due to weather. There is also offer a "cancel for any reason" policy. Costs will typically range from $200-$700 depending on your trip length, cost and your age and trip insurance needs to be purchase within 20 days from first deposit/payment was made.
You can view the Global Rescue offerings here, or please feel free to source through your own providers.
Accommodation
We recommend staying in Wānaka the night before your trip as we will have a gear check at the office the evening before then leave from our Wānaka office the morning of your trip.
Wānaka offers a vast range of options for your pre and post trip accommodation. It can be busy over the winter and summer season, so it is a good idea to book well in advance.
We do have special arrangements with some Wānaka accommodation providers. Get in touch with us should you like some recommendations.
*For day hikes, we can provide pickup form your Wānaka accommodation if you need. Please get in touch with our team to let us know where you're staying if you would like a pickup.
What our Customers say
about us?
Hear directly from the adventurers who’ve joined us. Their stories of success and transformation highlight the extraordinary experiences that await you with Aspiring Guides.
Hannah, New Zealand
10/10. These guys are a pleasure to work with. Super accomodating and the guides made everyone feel comfortable and safe on our avalanche course. We came away feeling equiped with the knowledge we need moving forward and also had a super fun time with this lot! Couldn’t recommend more.
Jonathan, New Zealand
Brilliant Gillespie-Rabbit guided trip in Mt Aspiring National Park over the New Year. The logistics managed by Aspiring Guides was superb... enabling big adventures with mainly fresh and delicious food, without huge heavy packs. We had a small group with lots of laughs. Despite our wide experience we all learned heaps from our talented and chilled guide, Adam. His local knowledge and experience is superb especially around river-crossings, navigation and delicious cooking :). Thanks team!
Tim, Australia
I had an excellent ascent of Mt Aspiring with Aspiring Guides and my climbing guide Andrea. I was very happy on their introduction to mountaineering course a few years ago so chose Aspiring Guides for my first big ascent. Communication and preparation from the whole team was excellent in the lead up to the trip. This and flexibility in adapting to the weather made for a successful ascent. On the mountain Andrea was excellent in guiding me through the practicalities / skills required and supporting me when I struggled. Always safe, efficient and highly skilled I learnt a great deal from Andrea about everything from gear to techniques to mental approach. He calmly explained the appropriate technique for each situation as we transitioned and was encouraging with a gentle "just a little bit more" when I thought I couldn't go any further. This helped me get to the top and achieve a long term dream that was fuller and more satisfying than I could have hoped for.
Nick, Australia
I have been on 4 trips with Aspiring Guides now, and every one has been excellent! Some have been for summits (eg. Tititea/Aspiring), and others for more skills learning and technical work. Most recently I spent 3 days ice climbing in the Remarkables (with some mixed climbing and show shoeing thrown in). The guide Dean was fantastic (as was Andrea who I've been with before). A perfect combination of attention to safety, making me feel confident, and stretching me out of my comfort zone.
Tim, United States
My wife and I embarked on a 21-day adventure to New Zealand, dedicating a full day and two nights to the charming town of Wanaka. We had booked a private hiking tour in Mt. Aspiring National Park with Doug Beech, the knowledgeable owner of Aspiring Guides. Despite the challenging weather forecast for higher elevations and our own reservations about our physical readiness, Doug reassured us the evening before with his adaptability and alternative plans.
The next morning, we set off from our hotel in a new direction, guided by Doug’s expertise. It was reassuring to have a guide who could seamlessly adjust to changing conditions. Our journey took us through local trails and to hidden gems away from the usual tourist routes. A memorable lunch by a trout-filled stream captured the essence of New Zealand’s unique allure.
The day was filled with joy and a deep appreciation for Wanaka’s natural beauty and the quaintness of its lake and town. Although Doug’s technical skills far exceeded the demands of our excursion, his warm hospitality and engaging conversation enriched our experience. This day stands out as a highlight of our journey through the South Island.
Daniel, New Zealand
Recently completed 4 day Robrosa ski tour and split boarding tour. Excellent guiding and teaching from our guide Sarah, and all together a great company to deal with. Would highly recommend these guys
Ryan, United States
We highly recommend Aspiring Guides! They are an elite, top class company.
Aspiring Guides enabled my fiancé and I to see things previously impossible for people of our skill set. Fiery sunrises seen from the top of the mighty Tasman Glacier, deep blue ice cathedrals within crevasses of the upper névé seen while hanging twenty feet from our guides self-made anchor, or endless views of the West Coast viewed from perilously steep mountains include just a few of our experiences with Aspiring Guides.But in the end we were most impacted by the people we met, and friends made. Ryan Colley was our guide - a consummate professional. Initially, Ryan impressed me with his directness and ability to manage the itinerary within a tight weather window. He was flexible enough for us to bump our dates ahead 3 days, which gave us a precious few sunny days in Mt. Cook NP. Furthermore, Ryan monitored the weather closely and we were able to pull off a helicopter extraction as planned, with incoming weather looming. Furthermore, Ryan led us through terrain that pushed me to grow. He did not miss a moment to teach, either by example, or by suggesting that we lead where appropriate. When I found myself questioning whether the objective was too intimidating, Ryan was there to provide encouragement and settle the nerves. He was an excellent lead guide and we came away sorry of only one thing - that we did not have more days on the mountain with him.As an added bonus - Ryan was a great cook! We ate very well during our time with him. Hospitality was clearly top of mind - he even made sure to find us lodging in the Mt. Cook NP after our itinerary with Aspiring Guides had come to an end.
Aspiring Guides is a well run, top class professional company. Dan, who manages the office as well as guides in Antarctica, was willing to speak to me at length in the build up to our trip. He was very generous with his time and provided good insights. Victoria, the office administrator, was equally generous with her time. She coordinated our last minute schedule change, which made all the difference.
I heartily encourage anyone, of any level of experience, to enlist Aspiring Guides to accomplish your objective. They are an elite, top class organization. They will do everything possible to make your dream objective come true.
Thank you AG! We loved meeting you guys! Wishing you happy days!
Daniel, Australia
For those looking for a challenge and a unique experience, I would highly recommend booking a trip with Aspiring Guides. The team are very professional and my time on the Mt Cook Glacier was awesome. My guide Kim came with heaps of experience and technical competency and made the week both enjoyable and a good challenge. The admin support, supplied equipment and pre-planning made everything easy, especially coming from overseas.
Graeme, New Zealand
Walked the upper Wilkins and Gillespie pass in Mount Aspiring National Park as part of a group of 3 men who wished they had taken up back country walking as younger men! We were guided by Pat Gray. We were lucky with weather and had an epic 6 days of walking in a special part of the world. Our guide Pat was very well organised and knowledgeable and we were confident we were always in safe hands - many thanks Pat you are an outstanding young man! Aspiring guides have the walking experience maximised for enjoyment with “stashs” along the way to minimise pack weight. The backcountry huts we stayed in are well appointed and the Siberia hut in particular has a stunning location and epic views. Backcountry walkers are a fun bunch, and the evenings are a great opportunity to sharpen card playing skillls. The helicopter flight in and jet boat ride out at beginning and end of our walk were icing on the cake! Many thanks to Pat and Aspiring guides for a wonderful adventure.
Ed, Australia
My first time tramping in New Zealand ( and first multi-day trip after an absence of many years ). And so it was with a little trepidation, I turned up to the Aspiring Guides offices in Wanaka to start the 6 day Upper Wilkin valley and Gillespie pass trek in early March. To top it off, the weather forecast for the Makarora region was 63 mm rain on the first day; I began to wonder what I had signed up to. My doubts began to evaporate when I met our guide (and other members of Aspiring Guides staff ). They were very professional and thorough in pre-departure checking and situation assessment. We got underway pretty much on schedule and without too many changes to our itinerary despite the inclement weather conditions.
Our fantastic guide, Grace (and Aspiring Guides planning ) looked after us very well, and took care of every detail on the trip. And despite, challenging nature of this trek, I felt completely at ease and confident in all the situations I encountered. The skill and attentiveness of our guide played a large part in this. The only part left then was to immerse in and enjoy this incredible part of the world and share it with my 2 fellow trampers.
There were many fantastic memories on this trek, the ascent and descent of Gillespie pass in light snow conditions was one of them. The trek in the Upper Wilkin valley when the mountains opened up into a panorama as we rounded the corner, was another. Of course there was the unforgettable up and down climbing of the infamous "tree ladders", a treat that awaits. And as a finale ( and bonus), we had the "airy" helicopter ride back to Makarora.
6 wonderful days of tramping in the Makarora region of the Aspiring National park came and went. An outdoor experience that was so enjoyable, an experience I will not forget. I highly recommend Aspiring Guides. Thank you Grace and Aspiring Guides.
Pete, Australia
Been on the 4 day avalanche course and most recently the glacier ski/splitboard tour. Couldn't recommend them more. They were very professional, friendly, accommodating, and solid planning/execution of trip. Our group of 3 was well fed, felt safe and learned heaps. 6 star service! Will go again in future.
Olly, New Zealand
Perfect course was run for avalanche awareness. Couldn't have asked for anything better.
Couldn't recommend enough if you are looking at doing any ski related touring activities or courses around the Wanaka region.
Thanks again
Matthew, New Zealand
I had an amazing experience hiking with our guide Grace from Aspiring Guides on the Upper Wilkin and Gillespie pass trip. I had my first time on a helicopter and jet boat which was a blast. The scenery, native plants, birds, weather, and food was great. If you're hiking fit, I really recommend Aspiring guides if you want to go on a new adventure in the mountains. Thank you
Melinda, Australia
The Mountaineering Skills Course was excellent, and it has helped me to understand the foundations of mountaineering and what skills I need to work on. The trip was very organised from the beginning and our guide Andy was very patient, encouraging and always focused on the safety elements of the trip while also bringing in challenge and fun. Thanks for a wonderful trip!
Tom, United Kingdom
Without question, the best guiding company I have ever come across.
Doug and Victoria were thoughtful and attentive in curating just the experience we wanted. Andrea, our Italian guide, was patient, good company and a wonderful instructor. Altogether Aspiring provided a truly unforgettable experience for us - I cannot recommend them highly enough.
Gordon, New Zealand
The experience lived up to my highest hopes. I have been looking at Black Peak for years from my lounge window thinking how cool would it be to get to the top of it one day.
Aspiring Guides helped me achieve that dream
Johan, Australia
A very professional outfit. I've used Aspiring Guides multiple times since 2017 and all the guides have been very professional, capable and use sound risk management in Alpine environments. The gear/equipment used is good quality and the administration side is seamless. I'll be using Aspiring Guides again.
Liz, Australia
I did the Gillespie Pass walk and it was incredible! It was a challenge but that challenge was doable because of how well supported we were by Aspiring Guides from the beginning to the end. The pre-walk support was exceptional - information, follow-up emails, website info about the walk, what to pack, how to prepare. The walk was amazing! Not easy, but the challenge was made so much easier by Ross, our patient, kind and encouraging guide. We were also very well fed (even though I am Coeliac this was managed easily by Ross). It was an inspiring, challenging and beautiful walk, I highly recommend it. Thank You!
Colin, New Zealand
I had a fantastic experience with Aspiring Guides, tackling the Gillespie Pass & Rabbit Pass route. While I have hiked extensively before, I was glad I chose to go guided for this trip. Our guide, Adam, was very confidence inspiring and generous with his knowledge. Plus he was a great chef! I was also fortunate that my trip companions were like minded people and we had a wonderful time together. I'll definitely be back to do more trips with Aspiring Guides.
Deanna, New Zealand
Can't rate this crew enough. Magic adventure overnight ski touring at Black Peak with Sarah and Deano. You beauties!
Kelsey, United States
We used Aspiring Guides during our honeymoon for a 4-day Gillespie Pass trek. As avid backpackers, it was such a luxury to have an experienced company handle all of the logistics. Our guide Frankie was knowledgeable not just about the terrain but about flora and fauna we passed, was fun to hike with, and cooked amazing meals at camp! Having a guide took all the stress and thinking out of our trip to where we could just enjoy being outdoors and exploring a new place.
HIGHLY recommend this incredible small business! We’d love to go back and book another trip with them.
Gaik, Australia
We use Aspiring Guide for the Gilliespie Pass and Lake Crucible. We have a wonderful time with our experience and very patience guide Emily, helping us to accomplish both the tough tracks. Highly recommended Aspiring Guide, very helpful and professional.
Matt, New Zealand
Great people who really love what they do. I've used them for three climbing trips and their guides are fantastic. Have always felt safe and have learnt so much. Very clever at adapting plans for challenging weather or conditions!
Laura, United States
9 of us traveled via helicopter..stayed at Siberia Hut, 3 days, 2 nights. Our guides, Frankie and Adam were top-notch. We had different abilities and all were accommodated. Last day we hiked down to the Wilkins River and jett-boated out to Makarora! Stunning views, amazing guides, great food, great fun! Highly recommend!
Jamie, New Zealand
A truly life changing experience. I came away from the course with a thorough understanding of what is needed for me to move self-sufficiently in the mountains. This course has given me the confidence to continue the process of finding and climbing more technical routes. The structure of the course allowed me to build a solid base of knowledge by the process of repetition. Each day’s skills built on the last, slowly adding more complexity's as it became more familiar. Sooji is a fantastic guide. Her enthusiasm for all things climbing clearly shows. Sooji was very patient with all my questions and quickly got a feel for where I was at with my climbing and my goals. It was up to me how much information I wanted to absorb. I will forever use the skills I learned from this course in the mountains. Thank you Sooji and thank you Aspiring guides.
Thomas, New Zealand
Epic adventure with Aspiring Guides. Will was a guru and relentless in his teaching. So much learnt over the 7 days and now time to put it into practice. Cheers, guys
Let’s go to the heart of adventure.
Exploring is human instinct. That urge to scale new heights, to venture off the beaten path? We feel it too. Once that spark is lit, it’s a passion that burns for a lifetime.
Every expedition, every adventure is different; a fresh challenge that beckons us back time and again.
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