New Zealand's Classic Peaks

New Zealand's 3000m peaks offer a variety of ascents based out of high alpine huts or camps. We usually meet at our office in Wanaka at 8:30am on the first day of the trip. Here you will meet your guide and do any last minute equipment and food organizing. Through our correspondence we will have a good idea of your objectives, and your guide will discuss with you the trip plan, along with weather and conditions.

Aspiring Guides' location in Wanaka is your secret weapon. We have easy access to our local Mt Aspiring National Park as well as both the Westland and Aoraki/Mt Cook National Parks. With a wide variety of venues to choose from we aim for an objective that will take advantage of where the weather and conditions are best.

Season: November-January, base: Pioneer Hut. Lendenfeld is a prominent peak on the Main Divide of the Southern Alps north of Mount Tasman. The climb starts from Pioneer Hut (2300m) on the Fox Glacier and ascends across the upper neve through an icefall to Marcel Col at 3000m. From here the route is moderate snow/ice climbing along the main divide to the summit. The vista towards east encompasses Aoraki/Mount Cook and down to the Grand Plateau. To the west, the expanse of the Fox Neve and down over rainforests to the west coast.

Season: November - January, base: Centennial Hut. The Minarets straddles the Main Divide of the Southern Alps overlooking the Franz Josef and Tasman glaciers. The climb starts from Centennial Hut and crosses the Franz Josef neve and up towards Graham Saddle, a popular crossing point to the eastern glaciers. Above the bergschrund, the route ascends sustained 40 degree snow slopes to the saddle between De La Beche and the twin summits of the Minarets.

Season: October - December, base Tasman Saddle Hut. Elie overlooks the expanse of the upper Tasman Glacier and is an excellent viewpoint of the remote peaks and valleys to the west and north.

Season: October - January, base Darwin/Bonney Campsite. Flying into Darwin Corner, a tent camp is set up at the confluence of the Darwin and Bonney glaciers. Away from the upper Tasman Hut, this provides a base to explore this lesser visited area of the National Park. The ascent of Mt Hamilton is a perfect first 3000m peak and provides amazing views of both the Tasman and Murchison glaciers.

Season: November - January, base: Pioneer Hut. Haidinger is a prominent peak on the Main Divide of the Southern Alps overlooking the Fox and Tasman glaciers. The climb is an excellent progression to more technical ascents. It has a short approach from Pioneer Hut (2300m) and ascends an elegant snow arete to gain the main divide. The crux is the last 100m of mixed terrain to the summit.

Season: November - January, Base: Plateau Hut. Dixon sits on the northern edge of the Grand Plateau, surrounded by the large and famous peaks of Aoraki/Mt Cook and Mt Tasman (plus at least 6 other 3000+ peaks) and is an excellent viewpoint up the Tasman glacier. The climb is accessed by a short approach from Plateau Hut (2100m) and involves steep snow gullies to access an exposed snow arete and the upper East Ridge. For more experienced climbers, the South Ridge (III 3) offers a more technical ascent and a satisfying traverse descending the normal route.

Season: November - March, Base: Camp. Sefton is most visible from Mount Cook Village but is most commonly climbed from the West Coast. A helicopter to a campsite near Welcome Pass provides access to the standard route of the West Ridge. The summit provides a rarely observed vantage point over the valleys and peaks of the Hooker, Tasman and Mueller glaciers.

Season: November - December, base Pioneer Hut. Mt Tasman, New Zealand's second highest peak, is also one of the longer and more technical climbs. It is a long outing from Pioneer Hut traversing up and over Lendenfeld Peak and some parties choose to bivi on Marcel Col.

Season September - November, base: Pioneer Hut. The Central Gully of Douglas Peaks is one of the most classic ice climbs of New Zealand providing 800m of sustained technical interest. It is a much aspired to route for those with previous experience ice climbing and other significant NZ ascents.

Season: December - February, base: Bonney Glacier Campsite. The magnificent rock pyramid of Malte Brun, the highest point of the Malte Brun range, is a classic New Zealand ascent. Flying into Darwin Corner, the Bonney glacier is ascended to a tent camp on the edge of the glacier to be in position for this long and sustained ascent on rock. The Bonney headwall is ascended to gain the West Ridge just before the photogenic exposed 'Cheval' and continued interest all the way to the summit.